Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
